Mate, if you're dealing with really important data you should look into setting up a Raid.. more specifically Raid 5. You need 3 HDD drives minimum however. That way.. if any one hard drive fails at anytime you don't lose anything. Just remove the failed HDD and replace with a new one and let the Raid rebuilt itself. Just recently I found myself counting my lucky stars as 1 of my 6 2TB seagate HDDs shat itself.. if it wasn't for the raid 5 setup i would have lost over 10TB of data.. More info: http://compreviews.about.com/od/storage/l/aaRAIDPage1.htm As for your guitar.. its a real shame.
@Ralzy, yeah it was an external, but I've already taken it apart and hooked it up internally. There is some scorching on the PCB on the hard drive, I've seen some things online about replacing the circuit board salvaging the drive, I'm almost positive the problem is not mechanical as it still shows up in disc management as a drive with 746Gb unallocated, which is about the amount of free space I still had. I've also seen a few things online about how replacing the circuit board won't work on a newer drive as somehow the calibration for each one is coded into it somehow. Just trying to figure out the best least potentially destructive course of action at this point @bseos, thanks for the info, very interesting, I have another redundant drive for pictures and home movies and all that but it gets pretty tedious backing things up to both, and now that one of my drives is dead I'm getting a little worried about the other one, will definitely look into setting up something like that when possible. I'll say it again, and I'm being serious, how long do you think before creating a digital backup of physical objects (not living things), as well as the technology to recreate them on a nano level exists? I'm guessing maybe 50 years? What do you guys think...
@lampwiikk There are few possible reasons for scorching and the usual culprit is a short circuited TVS (transient voltage suppression) diode near the SATA power connector. These diodes sacrifice themselves in the presence of an overvoltage, thereby protecting the rest of the electronics. If your power supply can be trusted, then the easiest remedy is to snip the shorted diode with flush cutters. The drive will be OK without it, but it will no longer have overvoltage protection on the affected supply rail. So bare this in mind should you try it. For continued protection, a 12V diode can be replaced with an SMBJ12A, and a 5V diode can be substituted with an SMAJ5.0A. Other common culprits are the motor control IC, often marked "SMOOTH". If you need to replace the PCB, then you will most probably need to transplant an 8-pin serial EEPROM chip from patient to donor. This chip stores unique drive specific calibration data. Sometimes the ROM data are internal to the MCU chip, eg Marvell 88ixxxx, in which case professional data recovery would most probably be required. should help you identify the component: http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html
So If the drive is showing up I can`t see it being a mechanical problem either What operating system are you using I take its Windows as you mentioned Disk Management & what is the make & model of the HD?
Interesting stuff...normally i have played football with the ones i have broken so i guess this advice would not of helped! Nowadays i have 2 backup drives that only come out of the cupboard to update *yes*
Nothing yet, poor thing... It's still sitting broken until I get the money or the time and energy to fix it myself. But at least it's not getting more broken lol
