Hey peepz... would like to see a nice collection of links/posts to the art of modding.

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(1.) JVC Stereo Headphones HA-RX900 ( hxxp://www.head-fi.org/t/381303/jvc-ha-rx900-modifications-a-picture-tutorial-56k-forget-about-it )

 

(2.) Behringer B2030p (from WmAx @ hxxp://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=63625 )

(1) Remove tweeters from the waveguide. There is a point where the tweeter faceplate butts up/connects to the waveguide. This point needs a gasket. You can use rope caulk, bluetak, etc,; and use thin pieces to put on the ring center and outer segments of this contact point to ensure an air tight seal with the tweeter when you tighten the tweeter back up to the face.

(2) Use silicone sealant and apply around the tweeter motor assembly where it connects to it's own face. Be sure to apply enough to also cover the bottom of the electrical metal tabs. There is no gasket installed between the tweeter motor and it's faceplate. This provides for an air tight seal.

(3) Remove woofer. Use liquid superglue(not gel) and apply generously the to magnetic can shield that fits over the motor. You will apply it in the seam where the can meets the driver. This point is only crimped on - and will vibrate/buzz with certain music/sounds. The superglue liquid is very thin and will run into the joint easily; once it hardens, the vibration will not be a problem.

(4) The gasket between the cabinet and waveguide needs to be checked. Check especially near the top of the tweeter cut out hole; the gasket is very thin in this area and may not be exactly aligned with the contact points of the waveguide when tightened down. If you do not see clear impression where it should be sealing, loosen/stretch move the gasket a bit to align it to the obvious point.

(5) Optional(but highly recommended): Remove the factory supplied acoustical dampening material and replace with a highly effective material such as high density(4-8lb/ft^3) fiberglass or rockwool board.