OK this was covered some recently, but just to recap as I'm getting ready to make a purchase... I'm in a situation where mixing/mastering with monitors will not be possible most of the time. I'm hoping to buy a set of headphones to get as close as I can. I'm planning on buying a set of Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 Ohm headphones and am thinking about buying the Sonarworks Reference 3 Headphone calibration plugin for use with the 990 profile. First of all, of the compatible headphones, is that the set you would go with? What about the DT880s? This brand/model seems to be most reccomended. Any serious reasons why I should go with another brand/model? Secondly, I assume you load the plugin in the last slot of your output bus all the way through mastering? How would you typically use this plugin?

I have a pair of closed back phones I can use for tracking, I'm talking about for mixing/mastering. I realize this is not at all ideal, and I should rather use good monitors but I'm trying to make the best of my current situation. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

Try this...

 

880's have a flatter response than 990's. I have 770's and 880's, both great. It's a difference of a few Db's at certain points.

The difference between the 990 and 880 apart from the response if the 990 are fully open, the 880 is semi-open. Beyerdynamics are very good though, if you can't stretch to the 880 the 990 will still sound great. Despite what people may try and tell you, you can mix on headphones, if you can mix on headphones..not to say it's not easier in a treated control room with ATC's and NS10's..

You get a nice case with the 880's too, you just get a nylon bag with the 990's.

Comfy too.

 

i dont know about all the headphone mumbo jumbo, but i'd flatten the signal first then put mastering fx after...

 

I work with Sennheiser 650 and Sonarworks Reference 3 individual calibration profile (pre-calibrated). The difference between +/-3dB accuracy and +/-0.9dB is also 'huge' (if you have a good pair of ears) so that's definitely something to consider. Which model is up to taste I guess. I already worked with S 650 for several years but that sound was miles away from the quality that (this) calibration delivers. You put it on the very end of everything. There's an 'avoid clipping' option so that wouldn't result in problems. When bouncing, just turn it off.

I'm still curious though about one thing: the curve shows a flat line between 1k and 20k (so that's the best you can get) but the curve is waving beneath 1k. That explains the +/-0.9dB. So I ask myself .. how would this relate to the kick and bass part ..

 

Thnx for the input guys.