Now I know where you're from
You had awesome machines there, developed and built. the acorn archimedes was a fascinating beast and your sofware scene was world class. On the main land we had... stuff from murica.

 

Spoiler: ✨

 

Last edited: Nov 19, 2025 at 4:55 PM

A Juno 106 was my very first synth. But it got burgled. That's when things starting to go downhill.

 

I just took them. I thought I was dealing with professionals and you guys turn up with crayons and colouring books.

 

I'm UK. A narrowboat is 6ft wide. It's made of steel. They drip condensation everywhere. Mine had a woodburner and believe you me the boat gets filled with smoke at times. If you actually use them to travel about the canal network you are constantly crashing into locks. The power available is off engine alternators and battery's and in very short supply. Do not believe the idyllic looking videos of life aboard a narrowboat. It's hard graft unless you are parked up in a marina. I was on that for over 9 years. Music gear was an absolute No No.

Prior to that I was in a poor condition mobile home with a gutted house that needed planning permission and rebuilding. I had one of the JP8000's out whilst I was there. Prior to that I was in a small flat, and had a Juno 106 only. That covers about 35 years of life.

Sometimes the universe comes a knocking and you have no option but to take a different path in life than you might otherwise have chosen, and in my case, it did. Perhaps some things are just not meant to be.

The only reason I asked this question, which I thought was very sensible, was to get some advice based on real world experience. Some people know some surprising things and as a last 'check' I asked. I won't be explaining myself again. This is a 100% legit post.

 

Dude, when I first read your post I thought: wow, that doesn’t sound sad at all, more like a treasure chest of gear. But after I read your full explanation, I get that there’s a lot of struggle behind it.

Some pro tips:

1) Before you plug in that beast setup, CHECK THOSE OUTLETS, dude!
2) Grab a beefy power strip (the kind that laughs at power surges), plug all your synths and pedals into it, and boom: epic sound without turning yourself into BBQ or deep-frying some of your favorite synths.

Have a killer session and get slapped by the synth and thank it in LFO!

You said you're kinda little broke right now? Well, Who knows, in your free time, maybe it’s time to finally monetize that beast of a setup you’ve got! Start composing whatever you call that bangers, producing absolute heat, spam those tracks on every platform known to mankind (SoundCloud, Bandcamp, TikTok, etc), and who knows: maybe Lady Luck finally stops ghosting you and slides into your DMs with a fat check. Stranger things have happened… like people actually paying for NFTs in 2025!

Some suggestions, mate:

• Make “field recordings” inside your current boat/flat and bloody sell them!
• Do “One-Synth Challenges” and post every single day short and “sexy” videos!
• Make “How I made this sound with £0 plugins” content, just pure hardware and that calm sound of the tide, 'cos many of us are tired of having so many plugins!
• Sell your own presets & samples: “Narrowboat Editions” proudly presents “Dripping Condensation Lead”
• Do remote collabs with people you already know/support you!
• If things are really grim: rent out the rig by the hour (dead serious!)
• Sell stems from your jams!

Brother, you already survived nine years in a smoky steel tube running on car-battery power. Why not squeeze that lemon for all it’s worth and turn your boat into a proper FLOATING FUCKING STUDIO? If the universe handed you the punishment, now it’s handing you the comeback. Pick two/three of these ideas, do them every single day for three months, and just watch what happens.

Serious mate, all the luck in the bloody world to you, you old bastard! Go on, get after it

 

Last edited: Nov 19, 2025 at 7:47 PM

I hope things calm down for you soon and you can finally tie up the boat, sort out a studio, and get back to making music
Try not to take it to heart it’s all just people taking the mick

 

"like people actually paying for NFTs in 2025!" It's incredible isn't it. Boats gone now. Finally in a proper, albeit small house. So it's coming out. At least some of it.

 

I deleted those photos. I ended up feeling slightly uneasy. Anyway thanks for the actual useful and encouraging replies. Karma is great. First time I've ever played it. And it had the expansion card in it which I didn't know about. Better deal than I thought.

 

Keep a little privacy and don't reveal everything about where you live or what you own.
Be careful that thieves don't steal your treasures.

I hope you now have a home and can dedicate yourself to your own music.

 

Last edited: Nov 20, 2025 at 7:57 AM

I would open any device which have been over decade unused and check there is not battery leakage going on, its better to clean before powering on

 

Here is a technical article that describes everything about batteries in detail; the original article is in German, so here is the complete translation:

Spoiler: Replacing the synthesizer battery

Replacing the synthesizer battery

Published on November 6, 2025 by Markus Müller

Replacing a synthesizer battery: Recognizing symptoms, knowing the types, replacing it safely
Replacing a synthesizer battery: If you love synthesizers and keyboard instruments, you love their sounds – and in many devices, these sounds depend on a small battery . This battery keeps presets, global settings, and the clock running when the device is unplugged. Eventually, however, this battery will run out. Here you'll learn how to tell when it's dead, which battery types are common, and how to replace it cleanly and safely – without unnecessary anxiety or unnecessary lists.

How can you tell that the storage battery needs replacing?
Most digital or hybrid synthesizers give you fairly clear signals. Often, a message like "Battery Low," "Low Battery," "Checksum Error," or "Replace Internal Battery" appears on the display when you turn it on . Some devices remain silent but suddenly behave strangely: custom sounds disappear after being switched off , factory presets are gone or corrupted , global tuning and MIDI channels reset , or sequences/arps start empty . Another indicator: On workstations with an internal clock, the date and time revert to factory settings after every power cycle.

Important: Don't confuse this with the activated memory protect function . Especially with vintage devices (Korg, Yamaha, Roland, etc.), a slide switch or menu option prevents saving – even if the battery is still good. Only if saving with the protection deactivated doesn't work consistently or a warning message appears, is the battery very likely nearing the end of its life.

What type of battery is usually used?
Modern keyboards and synthesizers very often use a 3V CR2032 button cell battery in a holder. Also common are CR2450 , CR2016 , or, less frequently, BR variants (BR2032/BR2325), which are even more stable under very low load and higher temperatures. Older instruments often use 3.6V cells (half-AA format, lithium thionyl chloride) or even NiCd battery packs for memory – these can leak over time and damage circuit traces. Therefore, always check the type designation and voltage in the service manual or on the old cell and only replace it with an equivalent one . "Just using anything that fits" is the wrong approach with electronics.

Why do these things last so long – and then suddenly die?
The backup battery typically supplies SRAM/NVRAM and, if applicable, an RTC clock with minimal energy. This often lasts 5 to 15 years , depending on the device, temperature, and cell quality. If the voltage drops below a certain threshold, the behavior changes: data becomes unstable, checksums no longer match, and the synthesizer will report an error. After a very long lifespan, old NiCd packs can also chemically degrade and leak; every month counts to prevent damage.

Replacing a synthesizer battery – before replacing it: back up your data
Before you loosen a screw, back up everything that's important to you. The most reliable way is a SysEx dump via MIDI to a librarian or your DAW. Many modern devices offer USB backups . Back up user presets, sequences, drum kits, and global settings . If necessary, take photos of the most important menu pages (MIDI channel, tuning, pedal polarity). For vintage classics without a simple backup option, it's worth checking the manual: often there's at least a factory reset and factory data reload – the latter, of course, doesn't replace your own sounds.

How to change the battery – two typical scenarios
1) Battery in holder (easy replacement)
Disconnect the device from power by unplugging it and waiting until all LEDs are off. Open the housing according to the instructions, taking ESD precautions (wear a wrist strap or at least work with a grounded device). Locate the battery holder , note the polarity , and pry out the cell. Insert a new cell of the same brand and specifications, align the positive and negative terminals correctly, and close the housing. Then turn on the device, perform the factory initialization /"Load Factory" if available, and restore your backups .

2) Soldered-in battery (vintage & some workstations)
This requires a delicate touch: The cell has solder tabs and sits directly on the circuit board. Without experience using a soldering iron and desoldering braid, you risk lifting pads or causing damage. If you can solder: Disconnect the power to the circuit board, desolder cleanly, insert the same cell with solder tabs – or upgrade to a battery holder (for easier future replacements). If you're unsure or see corrosion : consult a professional service center . This is cheaper than a costly circuit trace repair.

Pro tip (for experienced users only): The "parallel battery trick," where you briefly connect a second cell in parallel to maintain SRAM voltage, is possible – but risky. Incorrect polarity or a short circuit will definitely destroy your data. For most users, a clean backup is the better solution.

After switching: Initialize, load, check
Many devices require memory initialization after a battery replacement to ensure checksums are correct. Afterward, restore your backups . Check if the arpeggiator/sequence , pedals , MIDI routing , tuning , and aftertouch are functioning correctly. For workstations with a clock, reset the date and time. If the device continues to report "Battery Low," check the polarity , cell type , and—for soldered versions—the solder joints .

How to change a synthesizer battery? Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) – briefly answered.
Will my sounds be lost during the switch?
If your device uses volatile SRAM and there's no backup power during the switch , then yes. Therefore, back them up beforehand. Some synths buffer for a few minutes using capacitors – you shouldn't rely on this.

Can I use a BR cell instead of a CR cell?
If the voltage/format are identical and the manufacturer doesn't specify otherwise, this is typically not a problem in low-drain applications. If in doubt, stick with the original type .

How long does a new battery last?
For a CR2032 in a synth, 7–10 years is realistic, often longer. Devices in hot racks age faster. Note the replacement date on the device or in the case.

Where should you dispose of the old battery?
Not in the household waste. Collection points/retailers accept button cell batteries free of charge.

When should you consult a technician?
For leaking batteries , severe corrosion , SMD circuit board issues , or if you lack soldering experience . You'll also save yourself a lot of frustration with hard-to-reach devices if a professional handles the repair.

Practical safety and quality tips

• Use brand-name cells (Panasonic, Renata, Maxell, Varta etc.); no-name cells vary too much.
  
  
• Observe ESD protection ; one spark is enough to ruin RAM chips.
  
  
• Double-check the polarity . Reverse polarity destroys components faster than you can say "preset".
  
  
• No need for force : If the holder is stuck, find the small tab – don't pry it open like a bottle opener.
  
  
• Service documentation is invaluable. Many manuals list the battery type, position, and a reset procedure.

Conclusion – Replacing a synthesizer battery
Changing the battery in a synthesizer is usually straightforward – especially if it uses a CR2032. It becomes more complicated with soldered-in cells or aged NiCd packs in vintage devices. By carefully observing the symptoms ("Battery Low," lost presets, reset global settings), having a clean backup , and using the correct cell type, you'll be on the safe side. And if corrosion is a factor: it's better to take it to a professional service too soon than too late.

Source: www.keyboards.de/tutorials/synthesizer-batterie-wechseln

 

The main thing that will screw with circuitry is moisture and in turn corrosion. A synth has a LOT of different types of metals and in different thickness. If there was no moisture at all you're probably good. If you want to be careful, turn on one device at a time. Be wary of the device even if it seems fine at first (it may short circuit), keep an eye and nose out for burnt plastic / rubber smell. After extensive use you are probably good.