It's really no problem for my personal pedal tech to deal with circuits such as those!

 

Try a good filter like this from Amazon if it does not solve the problem just return it.
StarTech 8-Outlet Industrial Power Strip 125V/15A, EMI/RFI Isolation, Mountable PDU, 12ft/3.6m Power Cord, NEMA 5-15P/R

 

Can you imagine how hot that pedal would get if it was?

 

I'm thinking he needs a clickbait technician, You might be on the wrong forum

 

Actually the pedal has a very good tone. I have and had many compressors: MArshall ED-1, Carl MArtin Compressor, Carl MArtin Opto Compressor, Demeter Compulator, Keeley Compressor+, from all of them I like the sound of the Optivalve the most, be it for the tube or not. The tube is not the essential for me in it. It is the sound and the way they managed to get rid of the usual compression artifacts. The problem is the circuit adds a distortion on the input and you cannot remove later by the knobs. The same as in case of the Keeley. Anyway, yes, it is a starved plate, and it was concluded that as the tube operates on ridicuolusly low current, it is prone to distort, but what was investigated is that the tube should be 12AU7, according to the pedal text, and according to the previous block diagram too, but when I deassembled it, it revealed there is a 12AX7 inside, that tends to distort much more. So there seems to be the wrong tube inside. Why it happened like that I don't know because I purchased it new, and you cannot get the tube out, only if you desolder the switch, because of lack of space. And there does not seem to be any repairing on the soldering, so very likely they either put the wrong tube in the factory or I don't know. Anyhow, I will need to get the other tube and replace the recent one, I was told that may help, because the other tube behaves better in the starved plate circuit.

The problem is, even if this one will be solved, all the other pedals except for the Carl MArtin compressor have similar stupid problems, and as I am not a technician, it is difficult to investigate them all. For example the Keeley seems to exclude the part from the IC that is adding headroom. As it was designed like that in the factory, I can't modify that myself.

So for such things and other similar stuff, I would like if you stopped the speculation and other spoiling, and if you or others have an idea who is an expert in modifying these pedals and mention, that would be much better. Much better than some members playing being more expert than the expert.

 

You have a distinctive way of making yourself unpopular and your ignorance of your fellow human beings will not make your life any easier. I am curious to see what your third topic will look like, where I am sure only experts will be addressed and those taking part in the discussion will be labeled as idiots.

 

Radio, the good old Radio, how are you? Good good? Already preparing for Christmas? Where will you spend it? With family, or with friends in a bar? Gifts already purchased?

 

If nothing here is satisfactory or able to solve your issues and your stuff is still too faulty, noisey and causing problems just get rid of it all and you may have enough to buy perhaps a Line6 Helix or something like that. If you can't hire a proper electronic tech, you won't find any magical solutions. All the posters here have offered you whatever advice we could think of, good luck, hope you find a solution somewhere.

 

Hi! I was an expert once.. lol, anyway I encountered a situation like yours many years ago. The only way out of this mess is to connect all pedals one by one into a mixer and then connect the mixer output to the amp input. You have to match levels and decide which pedals connect in serial or in parallel. It takes some time to troubleshoot but you will probably find the problem and eliminate it. Having said that, you will likely never have it your way. I believe is better - as others suggested already - if you get a Line 6, Vox, profiler or whatever. This is what most pros do in these days anyway..

 

I thought it was strange that no one was commenting on his avatar, but then, I don't know when he began using it.

 

Your problem is simple : YOUR attitude.
You go here, ask for "expert" ... and talk to ppl like YOU are an expert and "know better than us".
With sentences like "I didn't know you are more clever and better informed of these pedals than their maker. :O So you mean next time I had better ask you about solutions not them?"

So you are better expert than any of us ?
Good luck ... i'm out.

PS : you are blocked too

 

You know that there can be a huge difference between humbucker and humbucker, right? If your guitar has high-output humbuckers and you dig in a bit, there is a high chance that you'll clip the input of certain pedals. I'm not sure how the circuit of that Optivalve pedal is designed, but if it's a starved-plate tube design it would mean that it has a pretty low headroom before the tube starts to clip.

I've had the same thing happen a lot with bass pedals. I could never use my Tech21 Bass Driver or Orange Kong Pressor pedals with my higher than average output split-P and humbucker basses, because if I plugged them straight into the pedals they were clipping the input of the pedals terribly as soon as I played moderately hard (i.e not clipping in the intended way). I could use them in the FX-loop of my G&K amp tho, because that way I could use the input pad for active/high-output basses on the amp to pad the signal before hitting the input of the pedals.

If you want to completely get rid of this issue you need to either stop using high-output pickups with those pedals, or get something that can pad the signal before hitting the pedals. A buffer pedal that can decrease gain should do it (although most of them can only boost), something like the Fender Level Set Buffer for example.

 

Well he said it happens with other guitars .
He's set up an unsolvable problem and then asks everyone to solve it, and knocks down every potential answer.
Intention matters, but whatever the intent, or whatever the mental condition, the end result is that the post is a TROLL.

 

The dudes guitar output runs way too hot for some of his kit when turned-up full... instead of simply turning the guitar output down (or using some other form of signal attenuation), @sono instead wishes the internet and all the pedal manufacturers in the world to know that even though @sono knows little, everyone else knows even less...

There's none so deaf as do not want to hear, especially those poor fools who've evidently invested way too much time trying to find a solution to a 'problem' that any clear-headed person would have simply worked around in five minutes.

 

Typical passive aggressive trolling. Foster-style, if not actually Foster. Maybe this is a better term to borrow, with a few minor differences.


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• Controversial Posts: Sharing extreme opinions on hot-button issues to provoke strong reactions.
• Content Recycling: Reposting popular content with minor changes to repeat past successes.
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This behavior is especially prevalent on platforms like X (formerly Twitter), where users can monetize high engagement through payouts to premium subscribers.

 

Now we're talking.
I remember when I swapped the original 12AX7EH tubes in my Electribe MX by the pin-compatible ECC803S from JJ Electronics, then doing the calibration thing.
Before, turning the gain to about 60% already produced some undesirable distortion instead of "fattening" the sound. Now, it sounds much better with less distortion.
YMMV but it might be worth a try.
Even looking at the choice of 12AX7 from different manufacturers, their sound can be surprisingly different.

 

Last edited: Dec 22, 2024

The multiprocessors can be a simple and effective solution, but not in the recent case unfortunately. To know why, that is a long story...

The mixer idea may be a good advice, but I don't understand: how you connect the pedals one by one? You can connect the guitar only to one channel, the other channels having other pedals will have a different input with the guitar missing from that input. Or you mean connecting the guitar to one channel, and put all pedals in a row to the effect loop of that channel? Can you describe this in detail?

 

Sure, for you....

 

The booster option has already been suggested to me. To build one with a pot that is able to go to negative, too. I have searched for factory made ones like that, but have not found any. Do you know any that can go negative and positive as well?

I am also aware of the pad idea. But we suspected problems to use them. However you were satisfied with that method. Can you let me know the exact type of the amp that you refer to, I could check the circuit of the pad in it, maybe it would be useful. But didn't you find when the pad was on, that it changed the tone of the input signal?

I found earlier as well myself, that on the effect loop the pedals work, they do not distort, but only 1 pedal. If you put more than one in a row, from the next pedal the problem returns. It was long ago that I tried it, do not remember exactly how the 2nd one was affected, I mean if the problem was that there was no level adjust on a pedal in the row or the volume cut on the pad was not enough. Anyway, it might be a possible solution, so in case you remember the type of the amp exactly, I would appreciate if you'd let me know.

 

What was the unsolvable problem, that you refer to exactly? .... Let us help others to know, without needing to go back to the first page:

"Anyone here or anyone has a friend who is an electonics expert?"

I am a TROLL, okay, but what you are then, if is is unsolvable for you to interpret this simple question, LOL? But don't worry, I describe you how to solve it: you read it, and in case you know about someone who is a pedal expert respected by many, you press the comment button here and let me know. If not, you stay silent, because you know it is not the thread where your comment is needed.

That's it! See how simple it is? Merry Xmas kindergartener!